Cologne is an important accessory in fashion. A must for both male and females, there are several types of national and international brands available in colognes. In fact, cologne is a regularly used necessity for groomed man. The competitiveness and hygienic concern has somehow made cologne a must have object in any man’s requirements. All the professionals and modern men are constantly on their toes from presentation aspect. Personality plays a great part in any man’s professional life. No educated man with a good job can afford to be unwashed and scruffy. One must have clean clothes, good hygiene and minimal accessories.
Fragrance can be categorized in cologne, scent or after-shave segments. A man must be very careful while selecting the appropriate fragrance. One must avoid the temptation of bathing in cologne. It should be used in moderation. A single squirt of bottle is sufficient for daily use. The rule says, one should not apply more than one or two finger’s worth of cologne.
One must change cologne keeping in mind season. In summer, light scented cologne is ideal whereas in winter strong musk or wood based scents are considered as suitable. Summer scents are better having grassy or citrus flavor. It also helps to have two cologne; one for daily use which should be light and other for specific occasions. Men should also apply cologne twice; once in morning and then again in afternoon. Its apt for persons with tight work schedule. Cologne should be applied at particular places like inside of wrist, below neck and on chest region. Cologne applied on these places mix up with body’s peculiar scent and provides the best effect.
Famous Indian Fabrics
Talking about beauty and range of Indian textiles, how can one forget Kanjeevaram or Temple sari from south India. These renowned saris come from the town of Kanchipram. Ask any would-be Indian bride, you will come to know what it means to wear kanjeevaram sari. In fact, it is every birde’s dream simply because of its magnificence of weave. Design varies in horizontal and vertical checks and lines. Forst manufactured 400 years back, the Kanjeevaram sari can often be found in gold threads or silk yarn.
Regal Paithanai is a popular textile because of its grandeur. Manufactured in Paithan, a small town in Maharashtra, it takes months to weave a paithani. Its most famous design consist of flowers and motifs of parrot. Many of you must have heard of Tanchoi. Legend says, three Chinese brothers settled in Surat and mixed Indian and Chinese style to weave this magical textile. Its speciality is subtle colors, embroidered look, light drape and elaborate work with extra floats.
Other famous fabrics include, Maheshwari, Bhagalpur, and Chanderi. Often designed in combination of silk spun and cotton, these fabrics belong to different states of Madhya Pradesh and Bihar. These light fabrics are quite exquisite and have intricate borders. Talking about double Ikat Patola, one of the most desirable Indian fabrics, is simple a masterpiece. States like Gujarat, Orissa and Andhra Pradesh are the originators of this wonderful fabric. The fabric has pure silk and will cost a bomb to your purse.
Other famous fabrics are Gadhwal sari from Deccan, Tissue Kotah from Rajasthan, Jamewar fabric of Kashmir, Baluchari textiles from Baluchar in Bengal, Kalamkari from Andhra Pradesh and many more. Indian fabric continues to mesmerize not only India but western world as well.
India's Textile Riches
India is a land of hundreds of different textiles both printed and woven. Each region in India has its won typical fabric which is closely associated to its history. Indian textiles riches have continued to mesmerize world since long. Few of the most popular textiles are favorite with everyone irrespective of region, gender and age. If we talk about Gujarat, it is famous for silk and brocade weaving. Even during the Mughal rule, Gujarat was known for producing velvets, silk and weaving brocades. There is a place called Aashval which is famous for its rich colors in contrast to the simple brocade border. Common themes used are, trees, doves, flowers, parrots, lions with colored silk interspersed with jari.
One talks about Indian textile and does not mention brocades of Varanasi, is almost out of question. One of the most well known symbols of wonderful Indian textiles, brocade or also known as kinkhwab (fabric of dreams) is the weaving of pure silk and gold strands to create a lush fabric. Varanasi designers are famous for incorporating various designs in single design. Several new designs can be seen incorporated in Varanasi textiles. These designs range from creepers, birds, floral patterns, animals, to hunting scene patterns and human forms. Not for noting, Varanasi is known as home of silk and brocade weaving. There are several other regions in India which are famous for independent brocade. The names which come to mind are; Aashavali, Tanchori, Jamewar, Paithani, Kanjeevaram, and Balucheri.
Black & Beautiful
Mention the color black and one starts getting the images of class, elegance, sophistication, mystery and a great deal of enchanting appeal. Wearing a black dress totally separates you from the crowd. The beauty of this color lies in its ability to go with any almost anything.
Black, undoubtedly is one of the safest and easiest colors to wear. This applies for both men and women. One needs to care about few things whole wearing black. One must wear matching accessories. If the entire outfit is black, opting for deep black makes sense because dark shades of this color provide that extra richness and zing to your personality. If the outfit is black which is already a sensuous color, having tassels, plunging necklines and bell sleeves can make it even more attractive to the naked eyes.
Beauty of an all black outfit is truly accentuated with usage of luxurious fabrics like satin, velvet and leather. It enhances the glamour factor. Women with fair complexion need to use light make ups whereas darker complexions should maintain a light tan.
Women also need to use right mix of accessories to stand out in the crowd because in a party most of the women wear black outfit. So having a posh hand bag or swarovski bracelets or attractive jewellery is all it will take to make you the center of attraction. Jewellery made of gold or silver or even turquoise go beautifully with black outfit. Think of having a pair of strappy pink heels with crystal accents and find yourself surrounded by several admirers.
Draping saree in Different Fashion
Draping saree is being done in different fashion in different regions. This is often inspired by culture of that particular place as well as religious preference and lifestyle. If we look at urban females, we will find attractive array of saree in forms like graceful silk, frequent usage of brocades, stiff tangils and chiffons. These saree are maneuvered around in desired way so that effect is long lasting as well as comfortable for the wearer. The way saree is worn in cities, it forms a skirt with pleats and tied around the waist. Generally, the part or also called pallav or pallu is draped over the left shoulder. Pallu is often left flowing or pinned up for the desired effect.
If we look at Bengal, we will find refined saree being used in sophisticated fashion. It looks quite elegant, seeing Bengali women draping saree in their traditional fashion. Sans any pleats, saree are wrapped around the waist and tucked neatly. The best time to see collection of Bengali saree and its aura is festival time. The diversity of India truly reflects in saree and draping. Walk around southern India and one can find different style of draping. Here, pleats are at the back instead of typical front portion. Whereas in Tamilnadu, extra long saree is worn by both Iyers and Iyengers females in a complicated fashion. The length is nine yards instead of traditional six yards.
Maharashtrian saree are also of same length and worn in similar fashion to that of Tamilnadu, whereas Santhal tribals of Bihar use saree which are up to the knee length. No wonder, this wonder garment has kept mesmerizing women of all age groups and even survived the onslaught of western garments.
The quintessential Saree
Sari is a typical Indian dress. Six yards of cloth, that’s all. Sari is worn by Indian women across all the states of India with much aplomb. Considered as one of the most elegant dresses ever worn by a woman, saree symbolizes feminism and sophistication. Saree can be stylist as well as seductive. It adds an element of poise and glamour to the wearer. The striking aspect of saree is, despite India treading firmly on the path of modernization, saree has remained an essential dress in millions of Indian households. It has managed to ward off all the new dresses, western clothes and different cultures. If truth be told, saree symbolizes India ness. In the life of Indian women, saree holds an important place. Whether its marriage, festivals, child birth, death and many more things, saree conveys it all. Different colors of saree tell different stories. Red is what one associates with bride and marriage. Silky gold color is worn in times of festivals like Diwali and Dasahra. White saree denotes parting of a loved one.
Every region of India presents a different facet of saree. Also, weavers and dryers of a particular region express the story of saree in a different way through their designs. Like, south Indian saares are represented by silk in appealing colors. Few of them even weigh 10 kgs. Patola weave and bandini style is associated with western region whereas kantha stitched silk saree is a hallmark of Bengal. Few of these Bengali saree take as much as six months of preparation. No wonder, they look so exquisite and fascinating. Banarasi saree are famous for their brocades whereas paithani silk saree is a gift from Maharashtra.
Khadi’s Arrival in Fashion World
Khadi’s journey into the world of fashion began with khadi show which was presented in Mumbai by the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC). It was organized in 1989 and the real highlight was showcase of 85 dazzling garments, created by Devika Bhojwani. It was an interesting mix of eastern and western attire. Famous designer Ritu Kumar presented her first Khadi collection at the Crafts Museum in 1990. It was also an informative show because of her unique Tree of Life show. It was actually an audio visual tableau which displayed historical journey of textiles in India, the creators of textiles and design lexicon of the country. She also presented talents of those who have been instrumental in regenerating textile crafts and the potential users of the garments.
Her show was a big hit and in fact so big that it has been presented several times. This show was also presented in London in1997 where khadi managed to fascinate British as well. Today, khadi’s popularity is such that it’s a must part of every fashion conscious person’s wardrobe. With changing times people have started to adopt retro fashion and in that case khadi leads the pack.
Kamal Wadkar is another renowned promoter of khadi clothes. She is involved with traditional crafts. According to him, khadi is also the ideal fabric considering Indian climate because of its cool texture and loose weaving. He is credited to present almost 4500 garments in 150 styles in different colors weaves and embellishment with prices ranging from Rs.460-750. She had also aptly titled her exhibition ‘Elegance in Khadi’.
Khadi- The Journey
Soon after independence, Khadi and Village Industries Board were established in 1953. Initially it had only 156 registered institutions. But how drastically, things have changed. Now a day every village in farthest parts of the country has it own khadi institutions. From the days of finding the weaving of khadi rather difficult, things have changed a lot. Now, range of khadi products is truly unlimited from garments to household linen to furnishings, etc.
Let’s take a look into the weaving of khadi. The basic step is spinning of the thread on the charkha which is followed by bobbin winder, then sizer and finally the weaving process. Under the system, a weaver does all the weaving at his place in an individual capacity whereas spinning is organized by the khadi Board. Weaving is most often done by men whereas spinning is performed by women and girls of the villages. There is a lot of work involved in the process and that explains its comparatively higher price than mill or handloom cloth.
Khadi has traveled a long way since the days of being identified with freedom fighter’s fabric. With changing times, it has turned into a fashion garment. It’s hard to imagine the days when it was ridiculed for being a fabric for the farmer and the rural wearer. But now, demand is such that, despite millions of workers all over India, demands are never met.
Khadi - The Origin
Khadi commands a sentimental value for Indians. It is often associated with Mahatma Gandhi. Someone said, the first true Indian designer was Mahatma because of his appeal to Indians to wear khadi garments. That appeal was necessitated because of the need of creating self reliance and proving unity of India to English. Khadi also symbolized the need and importance of indigenous manufactured goods. Khadi represented India’s resistance and revolution. Khadi was also the face of Indian identity. Many people get confused between charkha with kargha (handloom). The basic difference between the two is while khadi is hand made; handloom yarn is processed at the mills.
The actual meaning of khadi is any cloth that is hand spun and hand woven. India has long history of textiles. In the Vedic period, Aryans used to produce their own cloth. Khadi had an important role in marriage functions. Khadi charkhas were presented to brides in their wedding trousseau to encourage spinning of the yarn.
Even history supports and validates importance of khadi and basic Indian textiles. As per the historians, Alexander the Great was mesmerized by the art of fabric making and printing. The renowned traveler Marco Polo was also dazzled by this Indian beauty. But it was our own father of the nation who gave it the real importance which was long due. His launching of movement of spin your own cloth and buy hand spun cloth had whole country flocking to wear khadi and rejecting all other types of textiles. No wonder, khadi is considered as the fabric of the freedom struggle.
Latest Trends and Prices of Dupatta
Rajasthani dupattas are also called Laharia. They are mostly accompanied by tie and dye strips in colorful contrast. The literal meaning of Laharia is one that ripples in the wind. This ripple effect can be seen in not only dupatta but also in its bold stripes. Both flutter and its effects fluttering give it an impression of rippling in the wind. In some northern parts of India, it is used as a headscarf knotted at the back of the head.
The popularity of dupattas can be seen in various shopping centers in Delhi and Bombay. Numerous shops in these metros are specialized in selling various forms, designs and prints of dupattas. One can see crinkled tissues, dupattas in tanchoi, organzas and tissues, gold black prints. Among other latest trends in dupatta are; khadi-work in cottons, tinseled work on heavy silken brocades and chiffons and dupattas in tanchoi, organzas and tissues.
The price range of dupattas differs from place to place and brand to brand. Price also varies according to the style of dupatta. Like simple printed cottons and chiffons are available in relatively cheap range of Rs.60/- to Rs.80/-. More the embroidery work, highly priced will be the dupatta. For example, bridal dupattas and brocade are sold at Rs 500/- and above. One can have amazing types of dupatta provided one is willing to loosen the purse strings. The Tangails, Kanthas and Baluchars dupattas from the state of Bengal can be found in range of Rs.700/- to Rs.200/- whereas bandhini and laharia in silk and cotton range can be bought in region of Rs.100/- to Rs.500/-. Other favourite dupatta is Benares cut-work with zari and embroidered tili which is available in Rs.500/- and above.
Usage and History of Dupatta
Dupatta can be used in various formats. It can be worn with ghagra choli, with one end of Dupatta tucked at the waistband of the ghagra (long-skirt). This style is most often used by Rajasthani women. They are also known for using the dupatta on their head and both end of it flowing outwards. We can also see its usage with jeans, sometimes as a sarong or turban or sash. In south India, a different nomenclature is used for dupatta worn over a low skirt. It’s called half sari whereas in Assam it is called chaddar. In Gujarat, they call it chunri, whereas it is known as Dhathu in Himachal Pradesh. These dupattas or orhni or odhni comes in different texture of silk, cotton and chiffon. It also varies in length according to the region and culture of the place.
Going by the history, we don’t see any trace of dupatta in ancient civilization. Even archaeological evidences of Mohenjadaro and Harappan civilization don’t give us any proof of this particular garment. Though, vedic Indian people used to wear three garments; an under-garment called nivil, a garment known as vasas, and an overgarment known as adhivasa. Adhivasa was similar to dupatta or can also be termed as chaddar of modern times used by both male and female to cover their upper parts. Gradually it developed on its own as Indian women became more aware of their modesty.
Indian Dupatta
Dupatta is a typical Indian thing. Used as a traditional veil as well as fashionable scarf, Dupatta has omnipresence in India. More of a fascinating accessory, Dupatta provides wonderful finishing touch to western style dresses as well as Indian attires. Also known as the orhni or odhani, the literal meaning of dupatta is covering. Almost a diaphanous veil, it is used as a covering for the upper body parts, back, shoulders and head. The orhni is simply a length of cloth-printed, embroidered or plain, measuring two and a half to three down the back or wrapped around the shoulder.
Dupatta can be worn in various modes. One could be the traditional style of draped over the head. The other mode is, like worn with the middle portion of the dupatta resting on the chest like a garland and it’s both ends thrown over each shoulder. Often while being used with salwar-kameez, dupatta is flowing down the front and back, pinned in neat folds over just one shoulder. Some other times, both of the inner ends are knotted together over the other shoulder to form a cowl-like pattern, otherwise it generally drapes down the front and back.
Dupatta is a striking accessory that looks both graceful as well as stylist. It also provides a bit of value addition for the dress. Imagine, a plain silken or cotton salwar kameez ensemble worn with a heavily embroidered or sequined dupatta decorated with a beautiful border! How elegant! A few minor changes in dupatta or even in the way it is worn, and the whole thing gives fascinating dimensions and looks to the outfit and consequently the personality!
Indian Men’s Wear- Culmination
Witnessing the rapid growth in the Indian men’s wear market, many international brands have set up shops on Indian Territory. Major among them are; Benetton, Wrangler, Pape, Lee etc. they all are vying to have a share of lucrative Indian men’s wear market which is slated to rise even higher in coming times. Few old guns also opened their retail men’s wear segments. Reputed Raymonds launched Park Avenue men’s range or readymade garments whereas hardcore mills empire Bombay Dyeing launched Vivaldi shirts. Joining the bandwagon is the VXL group of mills comprising Digjam, OCM and Jiyajee with their line of Hagger men’s wear.
However, with all the growth in Indian men’s wear, women’s wear still sells more. And that’s quite obvious considering women’s’ taste for fashion. But potential of men’s wear has been noticed by big names in fashion and clothes industry. As a proof of this fact even specialist women’s wear designers like Rohit Khosla and Tarun Tahiliani, have entered into male clothes design segment.
The price structure for men’s wear is no more the deciding factor in purchasing process. One can find a local t-shirt off the pavements getting sold for as low as Rs. 50/- and at the same time, up market prices in range of more than 10,000-15000 for an overcoat at a classy fashion house.
Indian men have changed. Men’s wear has definitely come of age with blending pattern of both Indian and western clothes.
Indian Men’s Wear- Formal Wear
Indian readymade shirt brands were initiated by Liberty in 1950s. Following its success, several other brands stepped in. major ones were; Double Bull, Charagh din, Cliff, Van Heusen, Louis Phillip, Rod Laver, Fus, Globetrotter, stentcil, Ambassador, Snowhite, Karl Lewis etc. Major in-house brands in shirts are; Benzer, Instyle, Sheetal, Roopam etc. famous designer labels are Arjun Khanna, Rohit Khosla, Suneet Verma, Ravi Bajaj, Anu Ma, Rohit Bal, Krishna Mehta ahilian amongst the others.
Indian men generally prefer color like purple, pink, mint green etc as can be seen in the huge sales of shirts with above mentioned colors. Exclusive clothes are no longer in the sole domain of Indian women. Among western garments Indian mn prefer more of the shirt, trouser and suit to a certain extent. Indian shirt market has most number of manufacturers who are vying for a large chunk of the estimated Rs. 200 crore markets. According to rough estimates, there are almost 5000 shirts manufacturers in both branded and unbranded garments.
Trouser, the most preferred follow on of readymade shirts has also many branded and unbranded manufacturers. Famous names include, Zapata and Pantaloon among others. This is a common strategy and understandably so, that every major shirt manufacturer prefers to combine trousers with the garments in order to give it a more coordinated and matched look. Men’s wear also includes western suits and tuxedos. These are mostly available with branded names like Park Avenue or fashion boutiques. Though, most of the Indian men prefer them made at custom tailors. As a testimony to the rising Indian men’s wear, many departmental stores and malls have started to have separate men’s wear section that caters exclusively to the selective dresser.
Indian Men’s Wear- Ethnic Wear
India’s ancient culture combined with retro fashion has gained huge momentum and its competing intensely with western wears. Most traditional of Indian garments is Sherwani. Considered as a streamlines garment it has extra long length; 110 centimeters to be precise. It is also quite a structured ethnic wear. Sherwanis are combined with Churidars and trousers. Its fabrics could be either terry wool or brocade. It also has another version with asymmetrical opening or double breasted.
Most used casual wear for Indian men is Kurta-Churidar combination in light weight cotton, mills, pure silk or polyesters. These Kurtas are often collarless or with a plain band. Modern versions of kurtas often use draped effect as well. These kurtas are either have the 2-piece or 6-piece cut. The Bundi or Bundgala is another traditional Indian wear. It’s almost an Indianised version of western waistcoat and used with Kurta Churidar. Bundi gives a style statement to the informal Kurta-Churidar combination. Fabrics used in it are; raw silks, cotton, linen, silk, terry cotton, terry wool or brocade.
The Prince or Jodhpuri coat is Indian version of lounge suit. Its length is almost similar to suit jacket at 78 centimetres. It is used in combination with narrow matching trousers and gives a royal feel about the wear. Fabric is similar to that of western suit. These ethnic dresses have always been in vogue courtesy their ever lasting appeal and style statement factor.
Indian Men’s Wear- Coming To The Fore
The spurt in Indian men’s wear can be attributed to number of facts including, evergreen Indian movie world, foreign influence, phenomenal growth in number of designers and fashion houses. Indian men are blissfully aware of the world fashion. Interestingly, on an average Indian male is perceived to be slightly conservative compared to his western counterparts and a push is still considered essential for him to get more fashionable.
Technically or rather fashionable speaking, Indian Men’s wear in India is segregated into two distinct groups of Indian and Western. Indian men’s wear can be seen in corporate world on form of formal suits and dresses whereas western dress has two further parts of formal suits and casual wear.
India boasts of a proud clothing culture since ancient days. Whether its ethnic dresses or royal attires, one can find the splendor and grandeur reflecting from a source of Indian clothing. Its time of retro fashion and following the trend, India’s rich sartorial heritage manifesting in style of the ancient Maharajas and Mughal kings has started to acquire the center stage. Indian dresses like Sherwani, Budni or Nehru Jacket, Prince or Jodhpuri Coat and Kurta Churidar etc have taken center stage not only in India but in western world as well. Things changed in post-independence era. Before independence, most of the formal wears were designed according to western norms. Handspun fabrics became the new norm after independence.
Indian Men’s Wear
Indian men are now getting more and more fashion conscious. One can find Indian men in all sorts of clothes ranging from Indian clothes, western styles, the formal shirts and casual kurtas, sherwanis, fashionable suits. Fashion and latest designs are new buzzwords in Indian men’s’ lifestyles.
Indian fashion is no more about fairer sex. Since ancient times, Indian men have kept up their own unique fashion sense. The only change is with advent of new economy and receding global boundaries, Indian men have started getting more options and they are no longer shy of flaunting the latest trends and designs. Indian males are known to use unstitched garments like lungi, dhoti, and sari etc. But thanks to modernization, dressing habits of men have also become more modern. Changing dressing sense of men can be best understood from the fact that, in a span of 2-3 decades, the readymade garment industry in India has grown hundred fold. Readymade garments have turned out into a major industry of which 70 percent is consumed internally and rest 30 percent is exported.
As a proof of rising fashion awareness amongst Indian men, several world class brands have set shops in India. The name include likes of Ensemble, Glitterati, Intermezzo Linea, Anja San, Mutiny etc. these brands are specially for affluent class male population who will settle for nothing less than exclusive high-priced garment. Apart from the above listed names several others men’s wear boutiques can be seen setting shops in every nook and corner of urban India.
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